Journal Entry – January 28, 2008 Aussie Vocabulary

Author: Pam

After spending nine months in Kiwiland we were able to apply some of our learned vocabulary here in Oz since much of the vocabulary crosses both countries. However, the Aussies certainly do have their unique usage of the English language and colloquialisms. I would go as far to say some of the words and expressions have found their way into our everyday vocabulary and are probably here to stay. Again, most of the words are used everyday in the English language, they just have found a different meaning here down under. I do still find myself often asking, how do you say that here? Which strikes me funny as I am asking and being answered in English. However, also it does seem there is license to shorten any word and add “y” or sometimes “o” which especially includes people’s names or places. Scott has been Scotty since the day we arrived. Thankfully, there wasn’t as much of a tendency towards Pammy. It has been fun collecting a list to share, there is a short list our visually impaired blind cricket friends taught Scott that fall into the R rated category and can not be published on this family site.

On my resume and for work I have also changed how I spell words such as organization to organisation (this applies to most words ending in “zation”), center is centre, color and harbor are colour and harbour. English (Australia) is one of the options in the MS Word spelling language list. This is the setting I use on my computer at work, so I hopefully look like I know what I am doing.

Ok, put on your kangaroo hat and try your guess at the definition/s. The definitions are given below, once you have finished:

Magic
Pinch
Heaps
Flash
Crook
Bloody
Dunny
White Goods
Tucker
Esky
Mug
Chook
Wind Screen
Lounge
Bonnet
Petrol
Fisty Cuffs
Blind
Chips
Tomato Sauce
Takeaway
Pram
Blue
Bluey
G’Day
Reckon
Layby
Ute
Pissed
Brolly
Yum Cha
Mitty
Schooner
Alight
Slip
Sacked
Sparky
Drippy
Whnge or Whinging
Tinny
Push Bike
Bugger
Bush
Me
Pen
Hanging
Brekkie
Doona
Sticky or Sticky Beak
Bloke
Sheila
Sunnies
Bench or Benchtop
Sloppy Joe
Fringe
Flat White
Short Black
Long Black
Grog
Roo
Fair Dinkum
Dinkum
Footy
Cozzie
Macca’s
Snag
Sanger
Uni
School Leavers
Monday Week
Sydney Sider
How you going?
Blow the dogs off of their chain
Off like a bride’s nighty
Kangaroos in the top paddock
Flat out like a lizard drinking
You don’t know me from a bar of soap
Stone the crows
Starve the lizards
One Tick
Beyond the black stump
Flash as a rat with a gold tooth
Call a sickie
Holy snapping bats

If your kangaroo hat didn’t work, try your Aussie hat:

Magic – If it’s magic, it’s perfect, wonderful, extra special
Pinch – To take or steal something
Heaps - Lots
Flash – Gaudy
Crook - Sick
Bloody – Used in before a word to add emphasis, bloody good
Dunny – Outdoor Toilet
White Goods – Household Appliances, i.e.; washing machine
Tucker - Food
Esky – Ice Chest
Mug – Someone who is gullible
Chook – a live chicken
Wind Screen – Windshield of your car
Lounge – Living Room
Bonnet – The hood of your car
Petrol - Gasoline
Fisty Cuffs – A fight using your fists
Blind - Intoxicated
Chips – French Fries
Tomato Sauce – Ketchup
Takeaway – Food to Go
Pram – Baby Stroller
Blue – Red Headed Male, Argument, Mistake and many other meanings which are confusing
Bluey - Policeman, Traffic Ticket
G’Day - Hello
Reckon – Used like, I think, I guess, I figure
Layby – To put something on layaway at a store
Ute – A utility truck, pickup truck
Pissed - Intoxicated
Brolly - Umbrella
Yum Cha – Dim Sum
Mitty – Small glass of beer
Schooner – Large glass of beer
Alight – To depart
Slip – To take your boat out of the water
Sacked – To get fired from your job
Sparky – An Electrician
Drippy – A Plumber
Whinge or Whinging – Complain or Complaining
Tinny – Usually an aluminum boat
Push Bike – Bicycle
Bugger – Mild swear word for when something doesn’t go well or sometimes refers a person who did something bad
Bush – Going into the country, wilderness
Me – Often used instead of my, I need to get me boat fixed
Pen – Berth where you keep your boat
Hanging – If you are hanging for something, you are really in the mood, “Hanging for a coffee”
Brekkie – Breakfast, usually refers to the “big brekky”
Doona – Duvet or Comforter
Sticky or Sticky Beak – to have a look at something, i.e.; a house for sale
Bloke – Reference to a man
Sheila – Reference to a woman
Sunnies - Sunglasses
Bench or Benchtop – Kitchen Counter or Countertop
Sloppy Joe – Fleece Top
Fringe – Your hair bangs
Flat White – Espresso coffee with milk
Short Black – Espresso
Long Black – Black espresso coffee with water added
Grog – Alcohol
Roo – Kangaroo
Fair Dinkum – Genuine, Real
Dinkum – Honest, Sincere
Footy – Football, i.e. in this part of the world Rugby
Cozzie – Swimsuit (New South Wales)
Macca’s – McDonald’s
Snag – Sausage
Sanger – Sandwich
Uni – University
School Leavers – students that leave High School
Monday Week – A week from Monday
Sydney Sider – Someone who lives in Sydney
How you going? – How are you?
Blow the dogs off of their chain – Very windy
Off like a bride’s nighty – In a big hurry
Kangaroos in the top paddock – Crazy, Insane
Flat out like a lizard drinking – Really busy
You don’t know me from a bar of soap – A phrased used by someone you talk to for the first time
Stone the crows – Exclamation like “well I’ll be”
Starve the lizards – A phrase used for great exclamation!
One Tick – One minute
Beyond the black stump – In the middle of nowhere
Flash as a rat with a gold tooth – Very Flashy or Gaudy
Call a sickie – Call in to work sick, but not necessary because you are sick
Holy snapping bats – Holy Cow!

Latest Email Update for our Friends and Supporters

Below is our latest email update sent out last week. If you would like to be added to this list and receive these updates via emai, just send a message through the website.

Ahoy to our Friends and Supporters!

Wow! What a cruising year it has been! In some ways it feels like wehave been running to stand still, but though we have put fewer milesunder our keel as we had planned, we have met so many wonderful peopleand had a fantastic experience in Australia.

As many of you know our engine died a severe and sudden death two daysoutside of Sydney prior to our arrival in Australia. We theninstalled a rebuilt engine to save a little money and everything waslooking good as we sailed out between the Sydney Heads.Unfortunately, various issues arose with the rebuilt engine on our wayto Pittwater, and though we thought we had the problems licked, thegremlins kept at the rebuilt engine giving us problems on our way toNewcastle. Once in Newcastle the engine problems outgrew our trust inthe rebuilt engine, and our mechanic and friend Bob kindly took backthe engine and gave us a full refund. At this point we decided toinvest in a new Volvo Penta engine (with a three year warranty), whichhas been completely installed and purrs like a kitten.

We now have the engine issues behind us but it is very late in thecruising season with the cyclone season looming. Therefore, we havemade the decision to keep Starship in Australia for the duration ofthe cyclone season (April 2008).

To fill the time while we wait out the cyclone season, we have set ourfocus on working to feed the ever hungry cruising kitty. Scott hasreturned to the states and is consulting in chilly Virginia and Pam isbeating the pavement looking for work in Newcastle. Scott will bereturning to Australia for the holidays and we hope to fit in somecoastal cruising in Australia's beautiful cruising grounds.

As for our plans next cruising season, they are somewhat similar toour plans for this year (before our engine demise). We will departAustralia sailing north-east making a quick stop in Kumac, NewCaledonia, and then it is off to Vanuatu and the Solomon Islands. Wewill then turn west stopping in Papua New Guinea, Indonesia, Malaysiaand finally Thailand for the 2008/2009 Cyclone Season.

As always keep an eye on the website as we will make updates whenitems of interest arise and please continue to share our adventurewith us when we depart Australia in April to continue the BlindCircumnavigation.

Cheers,
Scott and Pam

Journal Entry - November 6, 2007 Melbourne Cup Day, A National Passion

Author: Pam

On the first Tuesday of November each year, the entire country of Australia comes to an almost complete standstill and happily falls into Melbourne Cup fever. It turns into an unofficial holiday, except in Melbourne it is actually an observed holiday. I was in complete awe of the impact a horse race can have on an entire country and I quickly came to the conclusion there is no event that even comes close in the United States. It is an amazing unifying event, even children in pre-school postpone their afternoon nap to pick their favorite horse, unofficially of course. Many businesses close for the day or around noon. If they do stay open they very often provide lunch for their employees and there is definitely a TV for everyone to crowd around to cheer for their favorite horse.

I spent the day with our new friends in Wickham, Australia. The first order of business was to stop into the local pub, which is a TAB operator (Totalisator Agency Board) and assume the role of a “punter” popping in for a “flutter”, which translates into someone who places a bet. By the time the horses lined up at the barrier at Flemington Racecourse the TAB pool was up to five million dollars (it is Australia’s premier and richest horse race). I bet $12.00 in total and in the end won $9.00 on one of my trifectors when my horse came in second. The horse’s name was Purple Moon and my very scientific choice was based on purple being my favorite color. Melbourne Cup Day is often the only day of the year many Australians bet on the races.
After we placed our bets we went to Joyce’s house for lunch. Luncheons or picnic days are almost as big of an event as the race. The prawn population is seriously depleted on Melbourne Cup Day. We munched on prawns and champagne while we watched the horses and jockeys preparing for their big moment, as well as the speeches by people who had clearly already partaken of the bubbly.

At 3:00 sharp the race began and Joyce went into cheerleader mode. She didn’t really seem to have a particular favorite, she was even cheering for a horse that is legendary in the Melbourne Cup, but might actually be dead. Enthusiasm is a wonderful thing. This event that had caused the standstill of a nation was over in five minutes. The horses were exquisite and it was awesome to witness 24 champions pounding toward the finish line. I must say there is something to be said for the cream of the crop. The 2007 winning horse’s name was Efficient, which is a very apropos name for a winner.

The final important detail of Melbourne Cup Day is fashion. Many women spend months choosing a new dress and sport a fancy and in some cases elaborately decorated hat, especially the woman who attend the race. I was shopping before race day and there were definitely dresses and hats everywhere. There seems to be much more fashion flexibility amongst the men and hats do not cross genders.

Journal Entry – August 16, 2007 Battling the God Forsaken Gremlins

Author: Scott

This is a quick update to keep our website followers up to date. We have been extremely busy trying to sort out our engine issues. Although we have not made recent postings we have kept extensive notes and we will soon fill the gap between entries.

The ten second version:

Our engine died just outside the Sydney Heads. We tried to save some coconuts and bought a rebuilt engine. It took FOREVER to install the rebuilt engine, and then the rebuilt engine kept having problems until we finally sent the sucker back. We just got our coconuts back and put them towards a band spanking new engine that will be installed over the next 2 -3 weeks, and most importantly it has a WARRANTY! Now it is late in the cruising season with cyclones breathing down our necks, and we are trying to revise our lives to something that resembles a plan. Never fear, a little engine disaster or two won’t slow us down - the circumnavigation will go on!

The more blabbericious version:

As you are probably aware from our Log-Blog, we experienced a catastrophic engine failure two days outside of Sydney Australia. We were given the name of a mechanic who came highly recommended and we decided to install a rebuilt Perkins 67 horsepower engine to replace “Big Red”, Starship’s failed 40 horsepower Westerbeke engine. After a lengthy installation process, hampered by “the worst winter in 40 years” we were finally ready to depart from Sydney. Our first destination was Pittwater, twenty-five miles north up the Australian coast. Upon reaching Pittwater we were to have our engine serviced by Bill Lacey the person who actually rebuilt the new engine, however upon reaching Pittwater we learned that Bill had hurt his back and would be unable to service the engine. We also found an oil leak that led to three days of engine work.

Discouraged with our new engine, but willing to continue we headed to Newcastle. We were guaranteed that the engine issues were all sorted out. This did not turn out to be the case. Upon reaching Newcastle the oil leak persisted. To make matters worse, while recharging our batteries one evening, I was astonished to hear the engine alarm sound to find the engine seriously overheated. It turns out that the hose connected to the header tank was never properly clamped on and the pipe fitting was also not correctly fitted. As a result, all of the engine’s coolant drained from the engine within seconds disabling the engine’s temperature alarm until the engine was seriously overheated. At this point we had reached the end of our patience and considered returning the engine.

After consulting the mechanic we agreed to allow him to rebuild the engine again to look for problems that may have resulted from the engine’s overheating, with the stipulation that the engine would then be dynamometer tested to give us assurance that the engine was up to the task of blue water cruising. At this point the engine was removed from Starship and I assisted with the rebuild of the engine. Unfortunately after rebuilding the engine our mechanic was unable to find a suitable testing facility and our willingness to reinstall the engine evaporated.

So today brought a conclusion to the chapter of Starship’s newly rebuilt engine. I met with the mechanic and received a full refund for the engine. Over the past two weeks we have researched and agreed upon terms to have a completely new engine (with a three year warranty) installed on Starship. Over the next two to three weeks we will have a Volvo Penta D2-40, 40 horsepower engine, with new gearbox and three bladed folding prop installed on Starship. This new engine should provide us with the reliability and peace of mind that we need to take Starship offshore.

It is now very late in the cruising season and the southern cyclone season is looming. We are now weighing all of our possible options for the remainder of the season. Please check in on our Log-Blog over the coming week as we will fill in the gap in our journal. Despite our engine saga, we continue to have an incredible Australian experience. We will also provide an update on our next move, just as soon as we figure it out. Rest assured the Blind Circumnavigation will continue. We won’t let a little engine drama stand in the way of our goal.

Journal Entry – July 4 – 6, 2007 The Fish Market and the Wolverines

Author: Pam

Well, July 4th of course came and went unnoticed in Australia. Actually one acquaintance asked me if we had any plans, but otherwise I didn’t even really think about the picnic I would be attending if we were at home. I actually had a lot less fun than a picnic, I went to see the Dr. for the results of the tests I had a couple of weeks ago. Everything is fine, it was mostly the opportunity for piece of mind before we head off into the islands where a Dr. might be the local chief or the herb Kava (which you will hear more about once we are in Vanuatu). We were headed back to the boat, but spontaneously decided to go out to Bondi Junction to investigate hair cut options for me. I was planning to make an appointment for Friday, but we decided today was as good a day as any, so I settled on the salon Hair Talks. It was an experience that had its dodgey feeling moments, but in the end thankfully my hair did look better and wasn’t green. We grocery shopped on the way home and began a small dose of the arduous task of provisioning.

The wind started to build on Wednesday night as Australia was being hit with the ramifications of the biggest high over the Tasman Sea in the last 50 years. Lucky us, another record breaking weather pattern for the winter of 2007 and another delay in the engine installation. Bob and Rob were supposed to come today to finish the last bits and take the boat out for her test run, but Mother Nature had other ideas. If that wasn’t enough the wind also stole one of our mats on the outside of the boat and a clothes pin. It was an extra nice clothes pin too. Both causalities were our fault, we actually discussed whether we should bring in the mat before we left and decided it would be ok. New rule on Starship, if we even question it whatever it is, we will do it. We already have that rule when it comes to reefing the sail, if we ask one another do you think we should put a reef in, we do. We weren’t too terribly productive as the wind howled all day and we wondered if Bob would come the next day. I did get a manicure/pedicure today. Ok, I have been declared healthy, have a new “do” and clean and clipped paws and claws, I am ready to get out of Dodge.

Yup, no Bob on Friday even though the wind was dying by mid morning. Our friend Amber from the US came over to Starship for one of Scott’s famous breakfasts. She is heading out on Monday to continue her backpacking trip up the east coast of Australia. It was nice for all of us to feel a connection to home. Who knows where we will see her again, it doesn’t sound like grass will grow under her feet once she returns to the states.

After she left we were sitting in the cockpit feeling sorry for ourselves for the continued delays with the engine and discussing with very little enthusiasm what we were going to do with the rest of the day, when Bernie came by in “Solus” (his 25‘ wooden boat) and asked if we would like to go for a ride on the harbor. It took us about two seconds to grab a few things and jump aboard for a wonderful personal tour of Sydney Harbor. The Kitty Hawk and four other US Naval ships had arrived with some difficulty in all of the wind on Wednesday. We had no idea they were in town until David Marshall mentioned it, we really don’t have much access to news. Apparently the businesses are all hyped up for the millions of dollars that is expected to be spent over the weekend as our sailors and their families are here for some R&R. There are 5500 service men and women on the Kitty Hawk alone. She is a massive air craft carrier and will be heading back to the East Coast of the US to be decommissioned after her swan song undergoing exercises with the Australian Navy. We got a good look at her thanks to Bernie.

Our tour continued past the Opera House and under the Harbor Bridge where Bernie told us the Harbor Bridge secret which can only be shared when you are directly under the bridge. You will have to visit Sydney and meet an Aussie who knows the secret to hear it for yourself. After making our way through the veritable highway on the harbor we motored into Black Wattle Bay where we visited my new favorite place in Sydney, the Fish Market. You may recall Scott was taken there the day he went out on Free Spirit for the Tuesday Secret Men’s Business sail. I have been jealous ever since and now I know my jealousy was not unfounded. I was in heaven, there was piles of fresh fish and seafood everywhere you turned! We got a snack of Tiger prawns, followed by sushi and topped off with fish and calamari. The prawns were $18.99 a kilo (two pounds) which was at least $10.00 less than you would see them at the small fish counters near the grocery stores. Scott suggested I could get a parka and move into one of the freezers. I thought a penguin for a pet would be nice company. Since that wasn’t going to happen, as we were leaving I was already scheming how I was going to get back there again.

We got back in time to take a shower and rush off to meet Kate and Bernie for dinner. We arrived at Ash’s to find we were also having dinner with Kate, Tom and Frances. It was a lively group that was just getting warmed up for the fun to come. We had bought tickets to see the Wolverines concert at the Cruising Yacht Club. The Wolverines are three sailors who perform to raise money for kids sailing and cystic fibrosis. The CYC concert was the kickoff for their tour up the East Coast of Australia on their boat Holy Cow. We were not surprised to find out she has black and white sails. We met other friends once we arrived and had a really fun time dancing to their unique twists on some familiar tunes as well as some of their own original songs. The band members each bring their own personality to the stage, especially John with his perfectly combed foot and a half long beard. One of the band members had a sister with cystic fibrosis and one of their songs was written by him sharing his experience of being told about her illness. He thought his parents told him she had sixty five roses, which does sound remarkably like cystic fibrosis. It is a beautiful song that did not leave a dry eye in the house. It was another memorable evening in Sydney with our very special friends.

Journal Entry – June 30 – July 3, 2007 Starship Purrs Like A Tiger

Author: Pam

We returned from Lightning Ridge invigorated and ready to reclaim Starship and tackle the remaining items on our never ending “To Do” list. We spent the entire day on Saturday corralling wayward hoses and engine bits that were crawling all over the cockpit, putting away the multitude of things that had escaped from their places of safe keeping and cleaning the grease and grime from the surfacest. While I was cleaning Scott installed yet another water pump for the fresh water system. Unfortunately the one he installed last week uses more than five amps and would be best kept as its intended purpose as a spare. Our day of reclaiming the boat and our life aboard ended with a big grocery run and a yummy dinner of Bob and David’s authentic beef stroganoff recipe. They shared the recipe in the car on the way to Lightning Ridge. For the life of me I can’t remember how it came up, but we are sure glad it did, it’s a keeper.

On Sunday we met David, Donna, Kate and Bernie for the Sunday brekki at the Cruising Yacht Club. It was nice to see our Sydney friends and we had an audience for the tales of our most recent adventure. Kate had just returned from Darwin (located at the top of Australia) and she shared a bit of info that may be helpful if we make a stop there before heading to Indonesia. After our tummies were full we came back to the boat and spent the rest of the day hunkered down in the back cabin catching up on the administrative side of our life. When we finally came up for air we were both too knackered to think about dinner, so it was an at sea meal of grilled cheese sandwiches and soup.

Our admin tasks carried over to Monday morning until the AuquaTech technicians arrived to install our new AIS (automatic identification system) receiver. The installation had a few bumps along the way, but ultimately the kinks got worked out and we were being notified of all the ships in the vicinity. We were not able to install the receiver so the information overlays on our radar, we unfortunately have one model too old. Instead, the receiver is connected directly to the computer at the nav station. We now need to get the Blue Tooth technology so we can access the information while we are at the helm. I think once we get all of the components working we will be very happy with the set-up and grateful for any information we can get about ships within approximately 25 miles of us. The sun was out again, so there is hope the weather is improving and Sydney will come into their “normal” fine winter days.

Tuesday was a BIG day! Starship has an engine that purrs again, as Scott would say WOO HOO! After a day of hoses and wires snaking their way in every direction the guys were finally ready to try to start the engine for the first time. I was on the stern, where I had spent the day cleaning the BBQ. That was not exactly my plan, but there really wasn’t anywhere else to be since I was useless anywhere near the engine surgery. Scott on the other hand hovered and asked questions all day, I think he has definitely moved passed diesel engines 101. Fortunately, Bob is very patient and seems to thrive on Scott’s interest in knowing as much as possible about the care and feeding of our new baby. No one gave me any warning, there was no ceremonial proclamation, the next thing I knew the engine was running and water was spitting out of the back of the boat, which is a very good thing. Their was a moment of drama the first time it started, Bob yelled “turn it off “, my initial excitement instantly swerved to holding my breath. The next thing I knew they started it again and the drama was over. There was a big discussion about an external versus internal regulator for the alternator and within minutes yet another dilemma was solved and all was good. We are in the home stretch, Bob and Rob left at the end of the day with a plan to return on Thursday to finish up the last few tweaks and to take the boat out to check the propeller. That will be exciting to actually be moving, even if it is only a quick jaunt out into the harbor. The day ended with a marathon visit to the Internet café to post journal entries. Leaving Sydney and getting underway is beginning to feel like a reality, we are aiming for July 14th to make our first move up the coast. Cross your fingers we can get all of kangaroos in a row.

Journal Entry – June 28-29, 2007 Pam and Scott Go Down Under in a Land Down Under

Author: Scott

News Flash - another night with a sighting of the mysterious shivering blue Bigfoot creature, teetering in women’s sandals, reported in the vicinity of Lightning Ridge.

We awoke on Thursday morning to a slightly warmer caravan. The same cup of steaming coffee awaited me, and Pam was treated to a thick rich and frothy cup of hot chocolate. Sausage replaced the bacon but otherwise breakfast was a repeat of the hearty campsite feeding we experienced on Wednesday.

After breakfast we had a group meeting and decided we would break up the return drive and spend the night in a country pub, giving Pam and I another Australian experience to take away with us. Having completed Bob and David’s business yesterday, today we were free to explore the Grawin area. Bob had made arrangements with Norm the night before for Pam and I to have a tour of an actual working opal mine. After checking in with Norm we learned we would be taken away at 13:00. To fill the gap between breakfast and our tour, Bob wanted to drive over to the veteran’s memorial.

On our way out to the memorial we stopped by the overburden mining dump where massive piles of opal dirt are dumped by the various claim holders in the area. By law any new mines must eventually return all overburden dirt to the mine shafts and this central dumping repository is where overburden can be collected to fulfill this requirement. The most interesting aspect of the dump is the “Noodlers”. A Noodler is an individual who sifts through the minors overburden dirt looking for loose opals that may have been missed in the mining process. There must have been at least ten cars owned by Noodlers in the dump’s parking lot and the giant mounds of overburden were doted with the occasional Noodler busy at work noodling. Pam and I decided we would noodle a bit when we got back to the campsite and see if we could find a long forgotten opal in the rubble.

We continued on through the maze of Opal dust roads until somehow we navigated our way to the Grawin memorial. Many of the minors in Grawin are, or have been, in the Australian armed services and right in the middle of this rugged mining landscape sits a pristine and very tastefully constructed memorial for Australian veterans. Bob and David explained that the memorial was a work in progress with many of the local minors providing labor and resources to create and enhance the memorial site. The site sits on a plot of land that has been completely cleared and a small damn has been erected providing a lakeside atmosphere. Large sandstone boulders have been moved to form a low walled outdoor chapel area, with a large center stone with the inscription “Lest we forget” carved in the rock. The smaller surrounding rocks each adorn a plaque honoring the contributions and sacrifices made by Australian solders that have fought on behalf of Australia in all of the major conflicts over the past two centuries. Outside of the chapel area is seating for the various ceremonies and services held throughout the year. Each year on ANZAC Day (Australia and New Zealand Army Corp), ANZAC Day is Australia’s Memorial Day for veteran’s, over three hundred people visit the Grawin memorial for a morning service of remembrance. Adjacent to the chapel area is a small shelter with a bar that is used for disturbing rum at sunrise, which is a tradition at the memorial site on ANZAC Day. Each year the memorial area is further developed with recent additions including a mounted prop from a World War II aircraft, various artillery shells, a huge naval ship propeller and a large cargo container that is painted camouflage green, that is in the process of being converted into a military museum. Another recent enhancement is the excavation of a barbecue area that will soon provide additional facilities to support large groups of veterans, so they may gather for fellowship. Overall we were quite impressed not only with the memorial, but also with the pride and patriotism displayed by the minors of Grawin.

After our visit to the memorial we continued to explore the region stopping at the new damn that is under construction. Next we visited the Grawin “Golf Course” which consisted of a shed, a few plastic chairs and enough barren, hole ridden, rocky ground to confuse even the most astute gopher. We also pulled over to explore an old sheep station that was no longer in use. We were amazed at the combined knowledge between Bob and David who have each spent time working in sheep stations. Basically here is how it works. The sheep are herded into a small pen with a number of doors (one for each shearer). Once the sheep are contained in the pen, the shearer’s door would be opened and a farm hand would grab a sheep under the front legs and drag it to the shearer’s stool. The shearer would then buzz off all of the fleece with a rotary cutting tool that is powered by a motor driven apparatus above. The actual shearing tool looks like a big wand with the business end looking like a rotary razor for Shrek. The sheep are actually sheared in less then a minute (shearers are paid per sheared sheep). Many a sheep actually succumb to the accidental nick and cut. When the sheep has finished being sheared they are given a swat and sent through another door to rejoin the naked heard on the paddock. Standing in the sheep station with the very distant and rank smell of lanolin in the air, it was easy to envision the station operating feverishly at capacity. I don’t image the shearing experience was quite like visiting Vidal Sassoon for the little wooly bah bahs. Now if that isn’t bad enough we were shown the gruesome hand winched crane and hook for lifting the sheep that were no longer being used for wool and had moved into the final mutton stage of their existence. If I was a sheep you better bet I would keep growing as much darn wool as possible so I didn’t end up on the mutton hook like my buddy old Lamb Chop! Maybe that is the diabolical reason for keeping the crane in the middle of the paddock area, it sure would inspire some wooly motivation…

Our visit to the sheep station was a fascinating glimpse at a business that provides tremendous industry for both Australia and New Zealand, but we had places to go and people to see, we were off to find Norm and get down into the mines for our tour.

We returned to camp and we were soon introduced to Les. Les would be our tour guide and would be taking Pam and I (just Pam and I) away to show us his working claim. We waived a slightly anxious goodbye to Bob and David and piled into Les’s Land Cruiser. Seems as though Les was also well versed in the secret navigation and driving tactics of Grawin as he effortlessly zigged and zagged, knowing precisely at what tractor to turn left and which broken down car to slow for another turn… In a few short minutes we pulled into Les’s claim and we prepared for our subterranean adventure. Les went to switch on the generators for lighting and Pam and I donned hardhats. Now I would describe Les as a fairly direct kind of guy who has spent quite a bit of time in the mines. He asked us if either of us were afraid of heights or small spaces, and when Pam said she was a little, Les calmly said “Now don’t you worry if you freeze up on the ladder I got a cattle prod that will get you moving”. You can bet neither Pam nor I froze up on the 35’ decent into the one meter wide vertical mine shaft.

My first impression of the mine was how clean and dry it all seemed down there. Because opal dust is white and the tunnels are generally large enough to walk upright in, the mine felt much more bright, open and airy than I had imagined. Les was a wonderful guide, explaining how to find opal faults, and many of the other principals of opal mining. He dug out a few pieces of clear opal for us to inspect and painstaking led us through all the tunnels of his mine, it was like playing human ant farm. During the tour we were given an example of how the Grawin justice system worked. Les told us that people sometimes dug through into other miner’s mines to steal opal, and that these scavengers were called “rats”. When I asked what happened when a rat was caught, Les explained with a crooked smile that the rats would probably get a bump on the head and find themselves down a deep dark shaft never to be seen again.

We ended the tour with photos of Pam, Les and I all posing with the electric jack hammer. I even had a chance to operate the hammer a bit, definitely a high point of the tour for me. We crawled back out into the sunlight, still not freezing on the ladder for fear of a little prod, but the tour was not completely over. On our way back to the campsite Les took us by his personal campsite to introduce us to his “dogs”. When we arrived one of his dogs was standing on top of his motor home converted from a school bus. Now I thought to myself – how could a dog get on a bus? After a little encouragement and a little cajoling Les’s dog got off the bus and trotted over to us. Now I am thinking to myself – that dog looks an awful lot like a goat. When asked Les said, “yep me dogs is goats, ha ha ha”. It turns out that Les has two dog/goats named Goaty and Scanny. Scanny was named after some kind of tractor truck engine called a Scanny. Goaty was a little shy but Scanny was full of energy and greeted us with enthusiasm. Goaty soon came around and they each let us get in lots of petting.

After our dog/goat fix we returned to camp to find that Bob and David had completely cleaned up camp and packed up the vehicle. After a quick thank you and goodbye to Norm and Les we were on the move again, destination Dunedoo to find a country pub for the night.

Our drive to Dunneydoo was full of funny Bob and David stories and the time and miles seemed to quickly evaporate. One of the tidbits of information they shared was that in Australia dunny is a colloquialism for toilet, and of course we all know what the word doo can represent. So, in a manner of speaking we were streaking down the highway headed for the town of “Toilet Poop”.

Upon reaching the pub at Dunedoo we were all keen for a big hearty meal and something to wet our whistles. Bob and David headed to the pub and Pam and I soon joined them after cleaning up from our mining and goat/dog tour. The pub and rooms were very much like I imaged them to be. The facilities were basic and clean. The pub had a menu ranging with all sorts of BIG comfort food. I was in heaven. Pam and I settled on the steak dinner that came with a slice of cow that was over half the size of our ample plates, with the other half loaded down with chips and veg, and of course there was sauce to smother the whole lot. Just to finish off the job I ordered an appetizer of fried spring rolls. David and Bob both got the mixed grill that came with even more food including sausages, chops, beef, and maybe a possum or two. We had quite the feast for a very reasonable price. The remainder of the evening was spent sitting around telling stories while a few characters down the bar gawked at Pam and I who were obviously “not from there”. Everyone was friendly and our night at the pub added one more wonderful and genuine Aussie experience.

The next morning we were up with the chickens or chooks (as they are called in Oz). We had coffee and breakfast in town and hit the road again. The remainder of the ride home was a bit more sedate, with each of us a little talked out and content to admire the scenery and reflect on the past few days together. David dropped us off at Bob’s and we said goodbye to our new friend. Shan fed us lunch that was a much healthier caliber than our last few meals. Bob then drove us into the city and dropped our very tired carcasses off for some much needed rest.

Our journey to Lightning Ridge can be summed up as one of those “real life” experiences that can only happen through the hospitality and enthusiasm of people living in the visited country. Bob and David’s willingness to share Australia through their eyes and stories gave us insight that we never could have experienced on our own. Thanks guys!!!

Journal Entry – June 27, 2007 Out And About in Lightning Ridge

Author: Scott

Today did not start as I awoke with the sun streaming into our caravan and the smell of coffee wafting in the air. No sir, today started at 02:30 with the inside of the caravan resembling an igloo with an air conditioner running full bore, and yes indeedy – I had to tinkle something fierce! I know you must be thinking, that is way too much information, but it is important we share our harsh and rigorous challenges with you our faithful readers, and early this morning, getting up to drain the lizard was as tough as it gets. I went for the quick and suffering method to take care of business. I didn’t bother suiting up, I just went out to face the cold in a pair of shorts, teetering in Pam’s flip flops (I couldn’t be bothered with my laces). So, if you ever hear of a shivering blue, semi-naked, Bigfoot sighting at Lightning Ridge, you can rest easy because it was only little old me.

Fast forward to 07:00 when we were awakened by our Lightning Ridge alarm clock, the camp generator. Pam and I braved the chill (again) and suited up for the day. It is strange wearing long underwear, wool socks, wind pants, and two to three layers of upper body clothing. The gear we received from our new sponsors at Icebreakers came in handy. This is one of the first times we have abandoned our shorts and t-shirts in months.

Bob and David were already moving about, bright eyed and bushy tailed. My fantasy of a steaming cup of Joe actually came true as Bob gave me a hefty helping of “gun fire coffee” (strong coffee with a dollop of Jamaica’s finest). Woo wee, now that’s one way to get the heart pumping! The fire was blazing, the bacon was sizzling and the campsite had many squawking visitors including magpies, and the ever present ravens (or crows as they are known in Australia) that sound like babies crying – waaaaaaa waaaaaaa! Pam was a little twitchy with all of our feathery friends roaming around but as long as they stayed outside of our overhang she was fine.

We feasted on a big camp breakfast as Bob and David outlined the day. The first order of business was to drive into the town of Lightning Ridge so Bob and David could present themselves to the mining warden, an annual requirement for miners and our ultimate reason for making this journey. Afterwards we would be free to explore.

Off we went, back through the twists and turns that Bob somehow navigated to eventually find the main road to Lightning Ridge. I image a similar setup that Batman must have used to keep the bat cave hidden from the outside world. The drive out to Lightning Ridge took just about an hour and in no time we were at the Department of Mining Services, just over the road from the old burnt down pub. While Bob and David took care of their business, Pam and I wandered around taking photos of the booming metropolis. I don’t think I would have batted an eye if Clint Eastwood came swaggering down the street in his dusty chaps with six guns swinging on his hips.

The boys were done in no time, having filled their annual requirement as miners. Next stop was the opal shop. We arrived and took over, looking at just about everything in every case. The sales woman was very helpful, allowing us to touch everything. She even left a striking red $50,000 opal just sitting on the counter as she retrieved more items from the back. I found an opal ring for myself in a jiffy, and after thoroughly inventorying everything Pam also made her purchase. We actually took so long shopping that Bob and David had time to visit the second hand shop in town and purchased some new steel bar stools for around the camp table. Apparently the white ants (termites) were well on their way to devouring the current wooden stools. Bob figures it will take some time before they figure out how to eat steel, but he reckons that eventually they will find a way.

Next stop was the grocery store where we topped up the provisions, and then it was back on the road to have a lunch at the campsite. However, while en route to the camp it was decided that we should stop in at the world famous Glengarry Hilton. Now if I was picturing Clint with guns a little earlier, I could easily envision myself lying dead from a gunfight in front of the Glengarry Hilton with a mangy three legged dog licking the sweat from my forehead. The Glengarry Hilton is mostly a watering hole for the miners, though they do serve food from the “tucker truck” a few times a week. There may also be a few beds for sleeping off the effects of a long night’s libations, or day’s, or morning’s… Originally the Hilton was renowned for its liberal trading hours being “always open”, but in recent years this has been reduced to “open from 10:00 am to 11:00 pm or later”. They are also known for the coldest beer in the opal fields. Somehow I don’t think old Paris would approve of the atmosphere, but perhaps considering her recent residence maybe she would find the Hilton homey. There are dirt floors, orange table cloths, a pool table, potbellied stove and a few random stools and tables strewn about. One could easily picture the place teeming with miners pushing the lizards out of the way to make room at the bar.

It was now going on 15:00 and it was time for some lunch and a few camp chores. Bob had been longingly eyeing a fallen tree and the time had come to rev up the thirty-three year old chainasaurus to give that tree a learning. The tree did not stand a chance against big bad Bob who reduced it to firewood in no time. I served as the log boy and collected and stacked the growing pile. We then all moved the pile to the campsite and Bob grumbled that he needed to change the chain on the saw, but never fear he had five replacements at the camp.

We started preparations for the evening meal. Dinner was to be a camp oven cooked roast and vegetables. The food is cooked in a cast iron pot sitting atop and covered with red hot coals from the fire. We peeled and chopped for David until he had all the magical ingredients necessary. Then with practiced precision the food was loaded into the pots. The coals were carefully selected and spread out on the ground with a shovel. Once the pots were arranged on the coals they were then covered with more coals and the whole enchilada would need to sit and cook for approximately two hours. Perfect, this would give us time to visit the other pub in Grawin, the less famous but equally rustic Sheepyard Pub.

We took the shortcut to the Sheepyard by crossing a campsite off road, turning left at a specified tree, traveling past the “old Duck’s place” and finally pulling up to the pub. We could not have been driving for more than five minutes but there is no way that Pam or I could ever have duplicated the trip. We were told that often vehicles are abandoned after a night at the pub due to their owners becoming disoriented, preferring to try their luck on foot. We were given far too many examples to include in this journal entry.

The Sheepyard Pub turned out to be a little more upscale than the Hilton. There was a cement floor, four walls, a fireplace and a solid roof. The interior was warm, and there was even a small lighted display case with sparkling opals for sale. The proprietor “Roundy”, a short stocky troll of a man had a heavy miners beard and looked like he could take out all seven dwarves with one hand tied behind his back. But it was not Roundy who would serve us tonight as Roundy had his eight year old grandson working the bar. When Pam took her usual time to consider her options, she was interrupted by the boy barman with an impatient “ma’am what are you having?”. This made us all chuckle and got Pam all flustered. We explored the pub and chatted with a few of the miners who proudly showed off their recent opal finds. David showed us large pieces of poster board with every serviceman’s name and rank proudly displayed. We couldn’t stay at the pub too long as our camp oven was calling us home for dinner.
When we returned to the camp you could smell the food simmering. Pam and I circled around like starving puppies and tried to patiently wait for our meal. Meanwhile we were visited by our neighbor Norm. Norm is a jolly man who has been mining for years. We also heard many a yarn about his days in the military. As we were chatting away David referenced his precise mental calculations and determined the food was ready to serve. Norm did not join us for dinner but stayed while we feasted on our camp oven dinner. After dinner the storytelling intensified until it was finally time for Norm to hit the hay. We all soon followed ending our incredibly interesting and action packed second day at Lightning Ridge.

Journal Entry – June 26, 2007 – Kangaroos on Mars

Author: Scott

When we awoke on Tuesday morning the rain was still falling as it had all night long. It was one of those “snug as a bug” mornings with a chill in the room, although we were safe in our warm protective cocoon of comfy covers to guard us and hold us pinned to the mattress unwilling to face the bitter morning. But the alarm was insistently demanding our participation in the day and with great regret we peeled away our toasty layers and rejoined humanity at 05:00. We quickly prepared for the day and soon found ourselves downstairs where a cup of delectable steaming coffee was immediately inserted into my hand, to bring me the rest of the way back to the land of the living and conscious.

This was to be a no fuss kind of departure. We had our coffee, David said farewell to Vicky and then we immediately piled into David’s flashy red Land Cruiser and sped off. We swept in and collected Bob and a few more provisions, then we were officially off for Lightning Ridge, about 800 kilometers to the northwest.

Once on the road the commentary began and remained throughout the trip. Bob and David were determined to make sure we saw everything despite our vision impairment. We wound our way through the hill country and into the Hunter Valley, one of Australia’s premiere wine production areas. We made a quick stop at the “Golden Arches” for the morning meal, apparently this is a tradition for the boys heading up to Lightning Ridge. Soon we were off again!

Bob and David have been friends for many years and they share that bond that sometimes forms between good mates. It might only take a word or two and the other immediately knows what the other is thinking, so when a story was started by one of the two, the other was immediately tuned in and ready to assist in telling the tale with enthusiasm. They loved to share their stories and never seemed to tire of hearing about each other’s adventures. The ride was not only full of information about Australia but as we rode along with the miles melting away, we came to really know each other.

As the day continued the landscape opened before us until we had reached some of the flattest terrain I have ever seen. Bob and David were amazed at the effects of the recent deluge of rain and told us that the landscape had not been this green since the 70s. As we drove on into increasingly desolate country and signs of civilization ebbed, there were always trees. There were trees everywhere eucalyptus trees (also known as gum trees), cypress pines, and many more varieties. I had always pictured the Australian desert as more barren but we learned that Australia was covered in trees, even in the remote outback. Of course we were seeing an exceptionally lush version of the interior of Australia, but one could see that this land was beautiful even if the green had retreated leaving a dustier, more rugged wilderness. And Australia is BIG, real BIG, GIGANTIC! Only twenty-one million people share a space nearly equal to the size of the United States. Even the regression of the roads was fascinating. As we traveled expressways gave way to two lane highways, that then became country roads paved with red asphalt that looked black one way and red the other under a sunny sky. These red roads were finally replaced by dirt roads grated into gentle humps with table drains to allow for rain runoff. Finally the dirt roads gave way to the hard pack roads made with white opal dirt, giving the area an unearthly moon-like landscape.

We sped on through the day, from town to town, until finally we stopped in a small town called Walgett. Walgett would be our last town before reaching the camp and we stopped in at the market to pick up a few final supplies. Just up the road from Walgett we entered the opal fields and drove into the labyrinth of opal dust roads known as Grawin. Grawin is made up of smaller groups of mining claims with names like Glengarry and Sheepyard. To properly visualize Grawin you need to image a mixture of the Martian landscape, a flattened out version of the Appalachians, and the earth portrayed in the Mad Max/Road Warrior trilogy. White dust roads randomly spider web through mountains of opal mullock (overburden dirt created from mining). Hulks of antique excavation equipment, trucks, trailers, and self built hybrid motorized monstrosities dot the surroundings with the occasional car door painted as a makeshift street sign. Grawin is the kind of place that a sleepy little Mexican town with dirt roads and chickens in the street, would consider a remote place.

Somehow Bob and David wound us through this other world of twists and turns and even managed to keep up with the flow of information. We were shown the famous Glengarry Hilton (see the scrapbook), the Sheepyard Pub, old Ned’s place, and finally our campsite.

Bob and David describe their campsite as roughing it with all the comforts and this is precisely accurate. The campsite is made up of a large flat roofed structure, stoutly built of steel posts with a corrugated metal roof. Under which is a trailer (or caravan in Australia), a shower enclosure, and a magnificent fire place built of metal sitting atop a base of cinder blocks. There are two large water tanks that catch the rain from the roof on the structure. There is also a separate shed for the generators, a smaller caravan, and the “Blue Loo with a View” a specially modified construction site outhouse with a “long drop”. Then there are the various vehicles and mining equipment that randomly adorn the site. Each structure has a unique story that can only be properly shared around a roaring campfire with ample time and a bit of grog. Of course there is also a mine shaft dug, although the mine is not operational as the boys are waiting to more fully evolve into mining in their retirement. For now the campsite is a place to escape the city and civilization, a special place for spinning yarns, a place for tinkering with engines and swinging an axe, a place to get away from anything and everything, a very special and yet humble retreat.

As soon as the car doors were open we sprang into action. Provisions were stowed, cobwebs cleaned, dishes washed, sleeping bags unrolled, and in no time we were stoking the raging fire with wood and settled in just in time for our kangaroo visit. It was like the roos were special ordered to appear for Scott and Pam as we struck camp. We were told that we might see some roos and here they were, a pair of gray kangaroos with the stereotypical baby Joey hanging in the mother’s pouch. They quietly stared at us with there deer-like tranquil eyes, posed for pictures, then silently hopped away. Wow - we really are in Australia!!!

Our first dinner was spaghetti bolognaise that David “just threw together” before leaving. We gabbed away into the night around the fire until it was finally time to head back to our little caravan to catch some sleep. What a wonderful first day at Lightning Ridge!

Journal Entry – June 25, 2007 – The Lightning Ridge Adventure Begins!

Author: Scott

Most Australians have heard of Lightning Ridge though most have never been there. It is one of the few true frontiers left in the world, making a home for would be miners, dreamers, loners, drifters, outcasts, and purported criminals. Many of the people who inhabit Lightning Ridge don’t have a bank account, address, or outside contact with others. It is only just recently that cell phone technology has reached this area, which was once serviced with only a rudimentary radio telephone network. Over the past week we have heard many stories about Lightning Ridge ranging from claims that everyone lives underground to warnings that the area is run by the Russian Mafia. However, absolutely everyone agrees that we were heading to the bush, the Outback, the real deal Australian adventure. Today we would leave our little maritime life behind, tie up our hiking boots, and step off into a land of mining for the precious black opal.

Today was the second day of engine installation. With all the rain over the past week we have been unable to move forward with the engine replacement, keeping our boat in a state of perpetual demolition zone mode. Our cockpit has been inhabited with snakelike greasy hoses, various fittings and gadgetry that would make any Transformer jealous. The end result was keeping Starship from feeling like home and after this next bout of installation we should be able to reclaim the boat and return her to a normal inhabited condition.

We were extremely busy all day, or as my current favorite Aussie saying would appropriately term it, “we were flat out as a lizard drinking”. Today we would be departing with Bob to spend the night before leaving first thing in the morning for Lightning Ridge. Long before the Bob and Rob electromechanical team showed themselves we had already made the coffee run, gone to the bank, had a bit of “brekki” (breakfast), and carried all of our laundry over to the local dry cleaner. Although Donna Marshall had kindly offered her laundry machine we did not have time to fit it in before departing to Lightning Ridge, so we found we could have our laundry done for $11.00 per load (only $3 more than the coin operated Laundromat’s cost of $8). By the time we returned from our errands Bob and Rob were busily heaving, bolting, and working away on the new beast. Bob’s plan was to work straight through until around 14:30 and then we would all head out to get organized for the next day’s travels. Pam and I filled the remainder of the day packing, retrieving the laundry, and making a second coffee run for the boys. When the appointed time came we locked up the boat, stowed our gear in the Land Cruiser and set out for our Lightning Ridge experience.

As we headed northwest to drop off Rob, Bob informed us we would be staying at his mine partner David’s house for the night as Bob’s dad is now living with Bob and his wife and he suffers from insomnia. Now we don’t know David from a bar of soap, but we were in adventure mode and we were just going with the flow. Part of our drive took us through Galston Gorge in the rain. Galston George is a deep gorge dropping from 1600 meters to sea level with numerous hairpin turns, waterfalls that can cross the road and crazy drivers riding right on your bumper to push the speed limit. Bob drove like a master through the terrain, managing to keep up a running commentary with interesting tidbits of information.

Once we dropped off Rob, we made a quick trip over to Bob’s. We met Bob’s charming wife Shan, ninety-three year old father Jim, and cat Jemma (who is a little antisocial). We had a cup of coffee, learned a little about maritime history from Jim and within minutes David arrived to scoop us up for the night. Our luggage was transferred from Bob’s more utilitarian Land Cruiser to David’s shiny red Land Cruiser and it was quite the vehicle, “flash as a rat with a gold tooth”, Bob told us.

Our first few minutes with David encapsulates the kind of comfortable nature of many of the Aussies we have met, one minute we were shaking hands and greeting each other and the next we were accepted mates “wagging the chin” on our way home for some “tucker”.

David lives in a charming home with a mountain cabin feel to it. There was a warm fire burning in the stove and an instantaneous comfy feeling of home. David’s wife Vicky, who is a psycho therapist, buzzed in for a quick hello and then was off to her home office to meet a client. We settled in by the fire with a drink and got to know our host a little better while he started to work some culinary magic in the kitchen. Shortly after our arrival we were joined by Vicky’s daughter (from a previous marriage) Ronnie and her partner Scot who were joining us for dinner, and after warm greetings conversations exploded covering travel, politics, and just about everything imaginable. What wonderful people we are fortunate to meet! Dinner was superb consisting of something David “just threw together”. Well, David’s creation was lamb neck stewed with capsicum, perfectly roasted potatoes, mushrooms sautéed in sour cream, and some kind of wonderful tart for dessert. We topped off our meal with coffees from David’s flash coffee maker and a nip of a delicious liqueur from Israel. The dinner conversations were lively, including Vicky’s account of her recent gas oven explosion, leaving her eyelashless, and thank goodness, mostly unharmed. It was as if Pam and I had lived our lives in Australia and were just part of the family over for a “feed”. After dinner we settled into a warm land bed, and fell asleep listening to the rain fall on the tin roof.